Flowers in bloom in Lima's Parque Kennedy-just the thing to see on arrival from chilly Philly. |
We started our trip in Lima, staying in the very pleasant
Miraflores district at the Antigua Miraflores Hotel, where later the rest of
the OAT group would join us. An early
morning arrival meant that we had a whole day to explore the city after we
dropped off our bags and repaired to a very nice café around the corner, La
Mora, for necessary doses of caffeine to wake up.
A leisurely walk took us to nearby Parque Kennedy
with great gardens, colorful statuary and an abundance of well-fed feral cats snoozing in the flower beds.
Hotel Antigua Miraflores, in a very convenient location in Lima, Peru |
Most of the Pacific Ocean views in this area of Lima are
from clifftops. We came across a modern
shopping mall built into the side of the cliffs with killer views called
Larcomar, complete with upscale shops, restaurants and a movie theater.
It was cheerily decorated for Christmas, which seemed incongruous to us, in the warm weather.
We stopped for coffee at a cafe at Larcomar, trying to compensate for the short night of not much sleep on the plane from Miami. We learned to order the most popular coffee, a cortado, an espresso cut with a little bit of milk. The coffee kept us going for a walk along the clifftops to Parque del Amor, with its Gaudi-esque mosaic wall, there is a huge statue of a kissing couple, hence the park name, that leaves little to the imagination.
Just beyond, on a promontory, a launching site for paragliders is a great place to watch the fun. The lighthouse at the end of the malecon walk was a nice finale to this sunny walk-we didn’t appreciate our first day in Lima enough, because we never had such a sunny day again.
It was cheerily decorated for Christmas, which seemed incongruous to us, in the warm weather.
We stopped for coffee at a cafe at Larcomar, trying to compensate for the short night of not much sleep on the plane from Miami. We learned to order the most popular coffee, a cortado, an espresso cut with a little bit of milk. The coffee kept us going for a walk along the clifftops to Parque del Amor, with its Gaudi-esque mosaic wall, there is a huge statue of a kissing couple, hence the park name, that leaves little to the imagination.
Just beyond, on a promontory, a launching site for paragliders is a great place to watch the fun. The lighthouse at the end of the malecon walk was a nice finale to this sunny walk-we didn’t appreciate our first day in Lima enough, because we never had such a sunny day again.
We discovered the Inca Markets, a huge complex of handicraft stalls, in Miraflores, and spent some time wandering around, enjoying the colorful wares on display, and learning what was available.
Hats, backpacks, shoes all sorts of colorful Peruvian goods at the Inca Mart-photos not encouraged, so blurry! |
Peru is also becoming known as a destination for good food,
so we thought it would be fun to take a cooking class while we were in
Lima.
We signed up for a market tour, fruit tasting and class to learn about several traditional Peruvian specialties at Sky Kitchen, run by Christian and his helpers Yurac and Sonia. Christian met us at Mercado 1, near our hotel, to show us, for example, different types of bananas, corn and potatoes.
Then we repaired to the teaching kitchen, on
the top floor with an open deck, really “in the sky.” Who knew there were so
many different kinds and colors of bananas, or that some lemons are almost flavorless and
others are rather mild. Some fruits were
familiar to us like starfruit, but others like tomate de arbol were totally new
to us. We learned four dishes in the
cooking class, including ceviche,
causa, an interesting room temperature
layered dish of mashed potatoes, avocado and chicken, lomo saltado, a sautéed beef
dish with tomatoes, and picarones or little doughnuts made of sweet potato and
a squash called sapaillo like pumpkin.
Our favorite recipe was for causa, which we
have since made at home with great success, especially as we brought some of
the ahi Amarillo, or ground orange chili sauce, home with us.
Here's an adaptation of the Causa recipe we made at Sky Kitchen cooking school:
2 pounds Russet potatoes
We signed up for a market tour, fruit tasting and class to learn about several traditional Peruvian specialties at Sky Kitchen, run by Christian and his helpers Yurac and Sonia. Christian met us at Mercado 1, near our hotel, to show us, for example, different types of bananas, corn and potatoes.
Ceviche we made at Sky Kitchen cooking class in Lima, Peru |
Student chefs Dane and John with their lomo saltado. |
The Aji Amarillo Molido we used to make the causa. We bought several packets at a grocery store. |
Causa (Adapted from a recipe from Sky Kitchen cooking school
in Lima, Peru)
7 tablespoons vegetable oil (NOT olive oil)
3 key limes (or two regular Persian limes)
3 tablespoons Aji Amarillo Molido (orange/yellow chili
paste) (available online or in Latin grocery stores)
½ pound white chicken meat (e.g. breast)
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 avocados
Salt and pepper
1. Steam the potatoes in a little water or microwave until
very tender.
2. Cook the chicken in water with salt until done, about 20
minutes
3. Peel the still-warm potatoes and pass them through a
potato rice or Foley food mill. DO NOT
process in a food processor. You want
them light and fluffy.
4. Cut the chicken into small pieces, across the
fibers. Add mayonnaise and pepper to
taste. This and the avocado will be the
stuffing. (NOTE: If you are serving the causa as a side dish
to another meat, you can eliminate the chicken.
Or get really fancy and substitute crab, tuna, or another protein as
desired.)
5. Squeeze the limes and strain the juice to make 3-4
tablespoons.
6. Cut avocados in half, peel and cut into very thin slices.
7. Add vegetable oil and chili puree to the mashed
potatoes. Add salt and pepper to
taste. Mix well to combine.
8. Lightly oil or spray with non-stick coating a metal ring
of about 3 inches wide and 2 inches high. Place on work surface covered with
parchment paper. Put about ½ inch of
potato mixture into ring. Cover with a thin layer of sliced avocado
pieces. Add another ½ inch potato
layer. If using, add a ½ inch layer of
chicken or other protein. Add another
layer of chicken and finally fill the form with a final layer of potato on
top. (Hint: I weigh the potato, chicken and avocado, and
then divide by the number of servings I am making, to be sure each is about the
same size.)
9. Remove the metal ring by pulling it up gently until the
potato tower slips out the bottom.
10. Repeat with remaining ingredients to make six potato
towers in all.
11. Decorate the
causa as you like, with squiggles of mayonnaise (put a few tablespoons in a
plastic bag, snip off the corner and you have a little piping tool), olive,
avocado slice, parsley, fresh chili or the following sauce:
12. Mince ½ of a
small onion with some fresh yellow chili, and then add 1 to 2 tablespoons of
Aji Amarillo Molido, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon lime juice, 3 tablespoons
vegetable oil and 3 tablespoons vinegar.
Drizzle a bit over each causa.
Note: If you prefer,
make the causa in an 8 x 8 inch square baking dish, and build up the layers in
the same way as for individual servings.
Cut and serve in squares using a spatula.
Having sampled fifty different kinds of fruit, then eaten our
courses from our cooking class, we felt the need for a walk so were happy to discover
fascinating ruins just a few blocks away. Huaca Pucllana, where the Wari and other pre-Columbian nomadic fisherman and farmers settled. Later the Wari made it an
administrative and ceremonial center and cemetery for its elite.
John, Missy, Joan and Dane showing off our causas made at Sky Kitchen cooking class in Lima, Peru |
The cemetery mound of Huaca Pucllana in the afternoon sun was very sculptural. |
We were
beginning to appreciate the uniqueness of Peru when its largest city of nine
million people has ruins from before 700 AD to the 16th century.
Another reason we arrived in Lima early was to visit the renownedMuseo Arquelogico Rafael Larco Herrera, located in a grand 18th-century
mansion built on a pyramid dating back to the 7th century. The museum houses the biggest private
collection of Peruvian pre-Columbian art and gave us a good comprehensive view
of the cultures that existed in Peru up to the 16th century.
Besides the excellent displays of pottery, the gold and silver collections were fantastic.
Ancient textile fragments on display included some made from bird
feathers. In a separate gallery that was
a bit harder to find there was a display of erotic art depicting the sex
lives of ancient Peruvians. Who
knew?
The central historic area of Lima surrounding the Plaza Mayor occupied us for an entire afternoon, with lunch at L’Eau Vive Del Peru one of many restaurants around the world run by the Lavoratrici Missionarie dell'Immocolata order of nuns to benefit their social programs. We noticed that we were about the only tourists in the restaurant, which offered a very reasonable lunch special menu and so was popular with office workers in central Lima.
Besides the excellent displays of pottery, the gold and silver collections were fantastic.
Inca gold headdress and jewelry displayed beautifully at Museo Larco. |
The central historic area of Lima surrounding the Plaza Mayor occupied us for an entire afternoon, with lunch at L’Eau Vive Del Peru one of many restaurants around the world run by the Lavoratrici Missionarie dell'Immocolata order of nuns to benefit their social programs. We noticed that we were about the only tourists in the restaurant, which offered a very reasonable lunch special menu and so was popular with office workers in central Lima.
A French chicken entree complemented by rice and yucca at L'eau Viv3 in Lima, Peru. Oh, and Peruvian beer too! |
The handsome courtyard entrance to L'Eau Vive restaurant, with displays about the history of the building. |
Iglesia de San Pedro in Lima Peru |
We toured La Cathedral on the Plaza Mayor, with the remains of explorer Francisco Pizarro in one chapel, and the striking yellow and white colonial complex of San Francisco, with church, convent, chapels and eerie catacombs.
The beautiful interior of La Catedral of Lima |
San Francisco Church Baroque facade dates from 1664. |
to a fabulous meal at Amaz with it’s emphasis on food from the Amazon region.
The best pisco sours we enjoyed were at La Baraches de Caliche, served in chilled ceramic Inca-style cups. Later we realized they were so delicious because they were dobles!
Some of us chose another Pisco Sour doble for dessert, but one of us was tempted by the Tres Leches cake! |
A bounty of seafood at Alfresco restaurant in Lima, Peru |
Dane being offered a special artisanal beer by the sommelier at Astrid&Gaston's La Barra |
Confit of Cuy at La Barra in Lima. |
Three different flavors of Pisco Sour at Alfresco: Passion Fruit, Coco and Purple Corn. All delicioso! |
When the OAT group arrived, we joined them for a tour of
central Lima, where we had already explored.
We also visited the National
Museum of Archaeology, Anthropology and History of Peru, with more information about the Inca
and preceding cultures. The Inca get the attention because they were the first
to be discovered by the Europeans, but there were several important groups with
longer histories before the Inca, which was a review for us from what we had
learned at Museo Larco, but good preparation for the next part of our trip,
Cusco and Machu Picchu.
Baroque Altarpiece at a church in Lima, Peru. |