New Orleans Visit Thanksgiving Week, 2012



New Orleans Sykline from the mighty Mississippi River

NEW ORLEANS, November 2012



First, the back story:  In the spring of 2012,  we attended a fundraising dinner for the Wilma Theater on Broad Street in Philadelphia  honoring our good friends Linda and David Glickstein.  In addition to the Wilma, we wanted to thank Linda and David, who had done so much for us when we were innkeepers at The Queen Victoria by writing about us in their well-known newsletter The Discerning Traveler. We thought it would be polite to bid on a few small trinkets at the silent auction.  We had to justify all that free wine and delicious dinner, right?  The trinkets weren’t of much interest, but a trip to New Orleans caught our attention – we hadn’t been there for over 10 years, so it was about time for a return visit.   Well, we “won” the trip for three nights in New Orleans, a five-course wine-pairing dinner at Commander’s Palace, and a jazz set at Preservation Hall plus airfare!  

This local saying became our motto.  "In between" was cocktail time!



We have been to New Orleans in the past, when we explored some of the more traditional sights such as Gallier House, Hermann-Grima House, the Historic New OrleansCollection and the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as the plantation homes along the Mississippi, so we decided to do some different things on this visit.  It was a good idea to visit New Orleans in November over the week of Thanksgiving to warm up as the chilly gray weather was descending on Philadelphia.  Our flight was uneventful, and we arrived at the Renaissance Pere Marquette Hotel in the business district of New Orleans in the early afternoon.  We slept well, the housekeeping was good, the water was hot, and the location was perfect, right off Canal Street, walking distance to the French Quarter and the Warehouse District.  

Johnny's Po-Boy Restaurant Exterior

After we unpacked, we set off to explore the French Quarter.  USAir doesn’t even offer pretzels or nuts any longer, so we were really peckish, having had only a quick early breakfast.  Our first stop was at a local place called Johnny’s Po-Boys.  Dane had a fried fish muffaletta sandwich and Joan had the classic oyster po-boy.  We enjoyed filling food and lots of local color.



Muffaletta Sandwich (Yes, there's bread under all that seafood!)

We strolled through Jackson Square, all decked out for the holidays, and paid an obligatory visit to St. Louis Cathedral then listened to an impromptu jazz concert on the street. 



Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter of New Orleans.




After some café au lait from the take-out window at Café Du Monde in the French Market, we walked up onto the levee and enjoyed a late afternoon view of the mighty Mississippi as we sipped our warm drinks.  The French Market, which was just closing, used to be more food oriented, but over the years it has suffered the invasion of the tchotchkes, although it still had some charm.

The graceful entrance to the French Market in New Orleans

Across Decatur Street we spied a bar (What, a bar in New Orleans?!) called El Gato Negro that called to us. The drinks were something else. 



Carrot Lime Margarita
at El Gato Negro



NOLA is not a place known for its fine craft beers.  This put Dane at a disadvantage, so to console him, Joan set forth to introduce him to the world of cocktails – something this city of Saints is quite good at. El Gato Negro had a carrot-lime margarita that called out to Joan, and Dane thought the cucumber ginger mojito was pretty tasty.



Pirate's Alley Cafe in New Orleans



 Having enjoyed two traditional beverages of New Orleans, café au lait and exotic cocktails, we continued by stopping at Pirate’s Alley Cafe, a small corner bar known for its absinthe drinks.  Joan loved the ceremony of serving the “green fairy”. Our friendly pirate-hatted server put absinthe in a small wine glass, and then put a small slotted silver tool which looked like a tiny pie server on top of the glass to hold a cube of sugar. She put the glass on a big coaster affair equipped with a green LED light, and then put it all under the tap of a good sized ceremonial iced water urn. She turned on the water in a slow drip onto the sugar cube then into the glass of absinthe.  What a show!  One of the “Big Six” cocktails in New Orleans is the Pimm’s Cup, so Dane had to try one. (The other five: Ramos Gin Fizz, Hurricane, Vieux Carre, Sazerac and Absinthe Frappe)  We had to try them all! 

Absinthe Frappe being made at Pirate's Alley in New Orleans





According to Fodor’s there are four hot chefs in NOLA—we only got to two.  We ate at Donald Link’s flagship restaurant Herbsaint that evening.    It was really impressive.  Joan had a cassoulet and Dane had a Muscovy duck, both excellent.  They also offered flights of three wines, Joan had the white and Dane the red flight.  A memorable meal.

The glasses for our flights of wine at Herbsaint. 

The next day we did two walking tours of the French Quarter.  The first, with a National Park Service guide, had as its main focus the Mississippi River. 



Mississippi River from New Orleans looking towards the Crescent City Connection Bridge

The Park Service has a very nice visitors’ center on Decatur Street near the waterfront.  As always with the NPS, our guide, an anthropologist, was excellent.  It is popular to bash government, but the NPS does an exceptional job and our taxpayer money is well spent.  Our second walking tour, led by a volunteer of the Friends of the Cabildo was centered on the French Quarter, a National Landmark Historic District, and included a tour of their 1850s House Museum. 



Detail of the bedroom suite at 1850 House Museum in the Pontalba Building

Though our guide was a volunteer, she still had to have a license requiring an extensive test.  This was of interest to Dane, since he is a proponent of licensed tour guides and is a certified tour guide in Philadelphia.

Latrobe Park, honoring Benjamin Henry Latrobe, designer of New Orleans water system

We had lunch at one of NOLA’s venerable restaurants, the Napoleon House Bar and Café, open since 1797.  From the service, to the dust, to the plastic dishes, we were not impressed.  Napoleon House, with a long list of writers and artists among its patrons, is a shrine to the unique New Orleans school of décor: faded grandeur. Nevertheless, it has a certain charm and we were told it is popular with locals. 



The faded grandeur of Napolean House; notice the bust over the cabinet

A beautiful example
 of Newcomb Pottery

We especialy enjoyed an exhibit by the Louisiana State Museum at Madame John's Legacy called The Palm, The Pine, and the Cypress about Newcomb Pottery of New Orleans.  As collectors of Van Briggle and Woodcraft and Forest patterns of Weller art pottery, we loved looking at the fabulous pieces of Newcomb Pottery. 

A property of the Louisiana State Museum, Madame John's Legacy in the historic French Quarter is one of the finest 18th century building complexes in Louisiana. Of special interest because it escaped the great fire of 1795, which leveled much of New Orleans, Madame John's is an excellent example of Louisiana Creole residential design at the end of the 18th century. Because of its fine architectural character, it has been designated as an official National Historic Landmark.  Its unusual names was taken from a story by George Washington Cable. 

The 18th century Creole cottage known as Madame John's Legacy in New Orleans

After some more wandering, we ended up at Laffite’s Blacksmith Shop, a cottage built around 1730, perhaps the oldest building used as a bar in America, and reputedly a front for the famous pirate Jean Laffite to peddle his booty.  It was also of the New Orleans school of décor; these buildings are cared for but they just don’t want you to know it. We think this option is far better than over-the-top restoration.  Joan enjoyed one of their potent Hurricane cocktails while Dane finally got to try a local beer.  Notice the container in which Joan's cocktail is served: a "go cup". Drinking from an open container on the street in New Orleans is not only legal but common; hence the oft-provided cup to go! 

Joan enjoying a Hurricane cocktail at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop

That evening was special; we had reservations at the famous Commander’s Palace.



Commander's Palace Restaurant in the Garden District of New Orleans



Dane was expecting something very flashy and touristy.  Well, it was impressive, but not at all touristy.  On the way to our table we were greeted by at least six staff members--as we walked by, they all said “welcome.”  To start, Joan had to try the official cocktail of New Orleans, a Sazerac, made with rye whiskey, Peychaud's bitters and absinthe, while Dane enjoyed a traditional Manhattan.  We had the chef’s five-course tasting menu with wine pairings. 

What a treat to not have to ponder the menu.  The staff, especially our serving captain, was very friendly and convivial, and the food was spectacular!  The servers and the captain were able to go into great detail about the menu items, and when we remarked how impressed we were with the first course, a demitasse cup of honey roasted parsnip soup, the captain even gave us the recipe, hand-written for us by the chef.

Honey Roasted Parsnip Soup

12 parsnips  

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

3 onions, (medium chop)   

1 teaspoon red chili flakes

2 quarts heavy cream 

1/4 pound unsalted butter

3 tablespoons local honey

salt and white pepper to taste

Peel and chop the parsnips, pan roast in butter over medium heat.   Add chopped thyme and red chili flakes, and then cook until parsnips begin to soften.  Add honey, stir well then roast whole pan in oven for 10 minutes at 375 degrees F.

Sweat onions in a large pot with butter.  Season the onions with salt and white pepper.  Add roasted parsnips and all the pan drippings to the pot.  Stir well, add cream and let simmer for 20 minutes; the cream will reduce by 20%.  Puree, season et voila!

Luke Hidalgo, Sous Chef,

Commander’s Palace Restaurant, New Orleans



Parsnip Soup at Commander's Palace

It was followed by Wild Burgundy Escargot Gnocchi; then a palate cleanser called Saint 75 made of elderflower liquor, Bombay Sapphire Gin, crushed citrus and basil syrup.  Next was the five hour egg (coddled for five hours at 141 )

followed by the main course of smoked loin of Wild Texas Antelope.  The last courses were a selection of artisanal cheeses and finally a frozen dark chocolate terrine.  Each course paired with a delicious wine.  We waddled home.



Five Hour Egg from the Chef's Tasting Menu at Commander's Palace

The next morning we decided to pass on breakfast at the hotel and went to a local cafe called Mother’s Restaurant.  Since 1938 this has been a place with down-home food, best known for their baked ham and brisket.  "Debris" on your biscuits or grits means slathered with meat shreds and juice.  Debris is delicious!



Biscuits and "Debris" and Hot Sausage for breakfast at Mother's

During Hurricane Katrina the building took water, but the real problem was that a lot of the staff became homeless.  The owner arranged for FEMA trailers to be set up in the parking lot for his staff, and they got the place back into shape in a few weeks.  Mother’s also has a Philadelphia connection.  The Marines have designated this place a “Tun Tavern New Orleans,” an honor they bestow on places they like.  The original Tun Tavern, where the Marines were formed in the late 1700s was in Philadelphia, about where I-95 would intersect with Chestnut Street.

After breakfast we walked down to the Mississippi riverfront and strolled through the Riverwalk shopping complex, which must be a popular place for tourists and conventioneers, although we had it to ourselves the day before Thanksgiving.  At the far end of Riverwalk is the Southern Food and Beverage Museum which was great fun for us foodies.  Perhaps the best part was the area devoted to cocktail history.  Please don’t tell this to anyone, but Dane is growing to like cocktails, and admits that knowing a little history about them helps.  Did you know, for example, that the Manhattan was first crafted to celebrate Samuel Tilden’s election as Governor in 1875?  (Dane’s middle name is Tilden, and he’s a distant relative.) 

After the museum, we hopped a shuttle to visit Kern’s Mardi Gras World.  As is often the case, Dane was concerned that this was going to be hokey.  Well, it was, but really interesting, much like the behind scenes tours at Disney World, for whom the Kerns have done some work.  Most if not all of the major floats in the Mardi Gras parades are made by the Kern’s workshops. 

It was interesting to see how they build the figures and floats, and it was a photographer’s dream to plot out good shots of the assembled figures – after the tour we were allowed to wander around their huge warehouse at will.

Some of the float decorations at Mardi Gras World in New Orleans

A visit to a city wouldn’t be complete without a museum visit, so we stopped at the Ogden Museum of Art, a small and very manageable museum.  We have a game we play at museums--we walk into a room and try to decide which painting we would like to stuff under our coats and take home.  Well, this time, Dane found a roomful he wanted by William Henry Stevens 1889-1949.  (Wikipedia:  an American modernist painter and naturalist. Stevens is known for his paintings and tonal pastels depicting the rural Southern landscape, abstractions of nature, and non-objective works.)  Of course now you all know what to get Dane for his birthday.  Alas, it was warm in New Orleans, so we had no coat to stash anything under.

From the Ogden we walked back to our hotel, exploring what is called the Warehouse District.  We had early dinner reservations at August, John Besh’s flagship restaurants.  (He is another of the  “Hot” chefs in NOLA.)  

The meal started with a decadent amuse-bouche: a seafood and egg custard with a hint of truffle and topped with caviar served in a hollowed out egg shell.

 Of course the food and service were outstanding.  The starter was an unusual egg concoction that was served in an egg shell that had been perfectly topped.  We asked how it was done, and our friendly server went back to the kitchen to get the special little device to show us.  One unusual thing about this restaurant was that they had a small but very nice beer list – Dane was happy, not that he minded the cocktails. 



Dane savoring his Grueze Tilquin at August Restaurant

Dane ordered an excellent Belgian beer, and then simply asked the chef to choose an entrée that would go well with it.   

Next we were off to Preservation Hall for a jazz concert.  Our auction package included “skip the line” tickets, and we were glad to have them as although we got there early, the line was already to the end of the block.  Preservation Hall doesn’t serve food or beverages; there are just three 45 minute sets of jazz every night.  



Preservation Hall: a Jazz Tradition in this Cultural Landmark of New Orleans

The place is New Orleans “faded grandeur” on the outside, so it is no surprise that the interior is similarly rustic.  There was seating for about half the audience – on hard wooden benches with no backs, and almost no amenities, not even a loo.  It was just music and everybody was happy.  When we left the line was even longer for the next set.  One interesting thing – that evening they were recording an album, so there were extra sound checks and a few re-takes; it was fun to be in on the special event.

Joan enjoying beignets at
Cafe du Monde in New Orleans

Thursday, of course, was Thanksgiving.  After breakfast at the hotel, we went back to the French Quarter for a self-guided tour since we knew nothing much would be open on the holiday.  By this time we knew our way around, but still enjoyed see some new neighborhoods.  We had early dinner reservations, so we again stopped by the Café du Monde for a snack of café au lait and fresh beignets to tide us over. We were amused to see powdered sugar spills all over the sidewalks of New Orleans-apparently many  people enjoy those puffy doughnuts all over town! 

Then we hopped on a free ferry for a 15 minute ride up the river to Gretna, just across the Mississippi. Gretna is a residential blue collar town, much quieter than NOLA.  



The busy Mississippi River with tugs, barges
and lots and lots of oil tankers.

We did a little self-guided tour, then waited for the return ferry on a bench on the levee; the highlight of the trip was chatting with a colorful Cajun local who told us his life story.

We stopped at the Hotel Monteleone, the grande dame of NOLA hotels for a bit of sustenance at the Carousel bar.  The bar really does rotate, very slowly, and above is the top of a vintage carousel.  Fun to look at but we were there for something else. 



Ramos Gin Fizz and Vieux Carre cocktails at the Carousel Bar in the Monteleone Hotel

Joan had a Ramos Gin Fizz and Dane settled into what has become his favorite cocktail, a Vieux Carre.

Vieux Carre Cocktail

½ oz. rye whisky

½ oz. cognac

½ oz. sweet red Italian vermouth

Dash of Peychaud bitters

Dash of Angostura bitters

½ teaspoon Benedictine

Lemon twist

Mix all ingredients in an ice-filled old fashioned glass, and garnish with lemon twist.



Tujaque's Restaurant in New Orleans

We had reservations for Thanksgiving dinner at Tujaque’s, one of the classic restaurants of New Orleans with special meaning for us. 

You see, we had dined there our first night in New Orleans in 1984, and our daughter Elizabeth, like any one-year old, was a tad fussy.  We recalled our server explained that the owner’s wife was in back and loved children; he offered to let her mind our baby so we could enjoy our meal in peace.  Talk about service!  This Thanksgiving, we talked to Mark, the owner’s son who is now in charge, a pleasant young man with a good sense of humor, who promised to thank his mother for us for her kindness nearly 30 years ago.  Tujaque’s is known for its stand-up bar and back mirror imported from France in 1856.  It works very well with the New Orleans faded grandeur décor. 



Tujaque's vintage 1856 stand-up bar and ornate mirror.

Tujaque's dining room

The dining rooms, however, are very nice and well cared for.  This just goes to prove that NOLA faded grandeur is really a desired objective – old and authentic.  It was a nice meal and a very pleasant trip down memory lane for us.  Plus we enjoyed their traditional Thanksgiving menu with New Orleans flair. 

Shrimp Remoulade-a traditional New Orleans dish
for an untraditional Thanksgiving starter at Tujaques.



A "cornstalk" cast iron fence
in the Garden District of
New Orleans.

Our last day, we took a bus (alas, the famous St. Charles Avenue trolley was out of service due to extensive track repairs) to the Garden District, where the grand folk live.  We did a self-guided tour of the great residential architecture in this area.  The Garden District has lots of cast iron decoration, and one home is known for its cornstalk fence. 

In fact there are several such around NOLA.  Dane did a little research and found out that much of the cast iron came from Philadelphia.  In fact the Wood & Perot foundry, which was at 1136 Ridge Pike, Philadelphia, made the cornstalk fence and more. They even had a sales office, Wood & Miltenberger, at 57 Canal Street in New Orleans.

An above-ground grave, called a
mausoleum, in Lafayette Cemetery No. 1

As a fitting finale to our visit to New Orleans, we strolled through Lafayette Cemetery No.1 in the Garden District.  Another charming example of the faded grandeur of New Orleans. 

Though there were more buildings to explore, and more cocktails to savor, there was an airplane waiting for us, so we had to head north, back home to Philadelphia, Dane’s beer drinking city.